Along with anime and manga, asadora (morning dramas) are a staple of Japan’s domestic entertainment industry. Produced by the broadcaster NHK since 1961, asadora plots are often based on inspiring true stories — which can spark renewed interest in places or people associated with these dramas.
The city of Matsue in Shimane Prefecture is anticipating an upcoming asadora called “Bakebake,” whose fictional protagonists are inspired by two local figures: writer Lafcadio Hearn, aka Koizumi Yakumo and a samurai’s daughter, Setsu Koizumi. The two met in Matsue in the late 19th century and became a literary power couple who introduced Japanese ghost stories to the world.
Matsue has preserved sightseeing destinations related to Hearn and Setsu for years. Now, the city is preparing to welcome fans of the new drama. For all fans of romance and horror, here is a quick guide to Hearn, Setsu, their television debut and the places in Matsue that carry their influence.
Who were Lafcadio Hearn and Setsu Koizumi?
Patrick Lafcadio Hearn was born on the Greek island of Lefkada in 1850. He grew up in Ireland and later moved to the United States where he worked as a journalist and author. After developing an interest in Japanese culture, he moved to Japan in 1890 and became an English teacher in Matsue.
Setsu Koizumi was born to a prestigious family of Matsue’s samurai class in 1868. At this time, Japan was rapidly modernizing and samurai were losing their traditional livelihoods. Setsu worked to support her impoverished family — first as a weaver and then as a live-in maid for Lafcadio Hearn. Soon after she took this job in 1891, Hearn and Setsu began living together as husband and wife.
Both Hearn and Setsu loved storytelling, and Setsu soon introduced her husband to local ghost stories and other tales. Neither Hearn nor Setsu were fluent in their partner’s language, but through close collaboration, Hearn was able to write these stories down in English.
Hearn became a Japanese citizen in 1896, adopting the name Yakumo Koizumi. Until his death in 1904 he published several English books on Japan such as the ghost story anthology “Kwaidan” (1904) and the travelogue “Glimpses of Unfamiliar Japan” (1894). Hearn’s works have been praised as outstanding explanations of Japan and its culture, but Hearn once told Setsu that he was only able to write these books because of her.
Literary legends in Matsue: Tracing Hearn and Setsu’s ghostly footprints
Filming for “Bakebake” began in the spring of 2025 and one of the first shooting locations was Yaegaki Shrine — a Shinto shrine famous for a pond that can supposedly predict one’s fortune in love. This shrine is one of many places in Matsue with historic connections to Hearn and Setsu.
Hearn and Setsu’s former residence in central Matsue is open to visitors. Next door, the Lafcadio Hearn Memorial Museum offers fans an overview of Hearn’s life and work. (An exhibit dedicated to Setsu is available for viewing until Sept. 6, 2026). The museum also sells English editions of Hearn’s books, including those that describe Matsue and its local ghost story settings.
Fumon-in Temple — located about 15 minutes away from the memorial museum on foot — is one such setting. According to Hearn’s writing, the bridge in front of Fumon-in is haunted by a ghost who is harmless unless provoked by a particular song. Modern visitors brave enough to cross the bridge can enter the temple and enjoy some matcha with wagashi (traditional Japanese sweets) for a fee.
Near Matsue Castle, visitors can catch the local Lake Line bus and ride to Gessho-ji Temple. Besides expansive hydrangea groves and a matcha service, Gessho-ji is known for its giant turtle statue — which Hearn wrote was believed to come to life at night.
The Lake Line bus’s route also includes stops at the Ohashi Bridge, which is the setting of two stories. One claims a samurai named Gensuke became a human sacrifice to strengthen the bridge during its original construction. The other story claims a stone near the bridge’s southern side magically grew so heavy that it could not be moved from its current spot.
Next to the Ohashi Bridge is a ryokan (traditional-style hot spring inn) known as Ohashikan. An accommodation called Tomita Ryokan once stood here. This was where Hearn first stayed upon arriving in Matsue.
The Matsue International Tourist Information Center — located by the north exit of Matsue station — can provide details about even more destinations related to Hearn and Setsu in Matsue, Izumo and the Oki Islands.
Visitors can also explore the settings of Matsue’s ghost stories at night with activities such as the Matsue Ghost Tour (available in Japanese) or an English walking tour with the local organization Osewa-san.
How to get to Matsue and explore like a local
To reach Matsue by railway, take a bullet train to Okayama station and transfer to the Yakumo Limited Express. Visitors can also take the Sunrise Express directly to Matsue from Tokyo and Yokohama.
Domestic flights from Tokyo, Osaka, Fukuoka and Nagoya arrive at Izumo Airport. Buses to JR Matsue station depart after each flight (buy bus tickets in advance from the vending machine on the airport’s first floor before boarding).
From Matsue station, the local Lake Line bus provides access to central Matsue’s most famous sightseeing destinations. Other city buses can reach places outside the city center such as Yaegaki Shrine.
NHK’s ‘Bakebake’: Bringing Matsue’s ghost stories to the screen
“Bakebake” is scheduled for release in the fall of 2025. Actors Tommy Bastow (seen in the 2024 international hit “Shogun”) and Akari Takaishi will play the roles of the characters based on Lafcadio Hearn and Setsu Koizumi, respectively.
Asadora are mainly available in Japanese and most easily viewed within Japan. On TV, asadora can usually be viewed on weekday mornings on NHK General TV (NHK G) — the broadcaster’s main channel. A compilation of the week’s asadora episodes is often broadcast on Saturdays. Web streaming sites such as NHK World Japan Premium, NHK Plus and NHK On Demand can also provide access to asadora.
Perhaps the best way to experience this drama, however, is to visit Matsue and walk in the footsteps of Hearn and Setsu themselves.
© Japan Today
3 Comments
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browny1
Matsue is a wonderful small city with many highlights and interesting places in the nearby regions.
Visiting Hearn's home and small but interesting museum is an interesting insight into the man and the times.
JohnThac
Matsus is a lovely city offering the best sunsets in Japan. Famous for it's clams, it also has an excellent art gallery. Close to the Izumo Grand Shrine which is really worth a visit.
deanzaZZR
My wife and I will spend a few days in Tono, Iwate, the source of many of the myths and legends retold by Hearn this December. I will bring Hearn's book on the trip.